How To Nail A Stud Into A Bottom Board

Wood Framing Toe-Nailing Connections
Guide to using slant-driven nails for wood framed joists, studs, sill plates, peak plates, & beams

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Wood frame toe nailing: how to toe-smash joists, studs, & beams in wood framed structures.

This commodity describes the proper method for strong "double-shear" angled or toe nailing of joists or studs that barrel into beams or superlative or shoe plates in wood framed buildings.

Properly done, toe-nailing makes very strong wood framing connections. But mistakes similar choosing the wrong smash size, incorrect smash placement, or wrong number of nails tin mean weak joints and a weak construction.

Forest framing connections & connectors: this commodity serial explains the proper option and installation of structural connectors, brackets & tie plates used to connect deck or porch framing and back up members.

We too provide an Article INDEX for this topic, or you can endeavour the folio top or bottom SEARCH BOX as a quick manner to find information you need.

Guide for Toe Nailing Wood Framing Connections

Definition of toe-nailing: framing nails driven on an angle from opposing sides and through the nailed-through wood framing member into the nailed-to framing member so that the "crossed" opposed toe-nails form both a shear-resistant and a withdrawal-resistant connection between the framing members.

[Click to enlarge any image]

Toe-nailing or slant-driven nails are commonly used where it is not possible to drive through the side plate or acme plate into the framing fellow member, and has been historically widely used for connecting studs to the top or bottom plate, beam to plate, and rafter to plate or ridge lath connections.

Nosotros will illustrate several of these toenail or camber-nail connections in this commodity.

Toe-nailing is used both stand-alone, without steel framing connectors and also toe-nailing is specified for the installation of some (non all) framing connectors.

In carpentry school we were taught that provided you use the correct blazon and size fastener (common nails, construction screws) and the right number of them (at that place are tables and standards) toe-nailed from both sides of the abutment of a stringer face to the flooring joist (or rafter to ridge and rafter to height plate, or stud to meridian and bottom plate) the connection is completely adequate, and is as strong every bit that made using proper joist hanger nails and joist hangers.

Y'all will come across that there are many opportunities to make a bad connexion using either approach, in particular, using improperly-sized, placed, or number of fasteners. At that place is no evidence in my experience that people make fewer mistakes using a joist hanger than using straight nailing. They but brand different mistakes.

Definition of shear loading & lateral loading of wood framing connections:

Shear loads or lateral load are across the framing nails while withdrawal loads are those that tend to pull the framing nails out of the nailed-to member.

Toe-Nails Instead of Joist Hangers are OK for Framing Lumber Butt-Joint Connections, just Don't Over-Nail and Don't Under-Nail

It is not necessary to utilize steel joist hangers if the joist is properly toe-nailed from either side into the ledger board, provided that the proper size and number of nails are used.

See FRAMING CONNECTORS & JOIST HANGERS for details well-nigh those connectors.

Our illustration (to a higher place left, adapted from a Double-Shear stamping on a steel joist hanger) explains why toe-nailed lumber connections can be very stiff.

Nosotros drew in spray-dark-brown color, a representation of wood framing members showing the abutting of 2x lumber (vertical in the illustration) with a header or axle (horizontal in the analogy).

The crossed nails, when applied close together (as guided by the framing connector or by the manus of a competent framing carpenter), form a very strong woods-to-wood connection.

Use of toe-nailing, or angled opposed framing nails (Double-Shear in Simpson Strong-Tie'south patented[10] joist hanger such every bit the particular adapted higher up), can permit the utilise of fewer total nails in a wood frame structure.

Our photo at left shows an unsuccessful apply of toenailing in a failed attempt to connect intersecting glulam beams. The nails (those brown spots) pulled, broke, aptitude, and allowed the connectedness to fail.

The steel Lally columns are as well not properly located an installed.

These beams are not properly connected and their structure is in danger of collapse. That some movement has already occurred is evident in the gap to a higher place my tape mensurate.

The strength of a toe-nailed wood framing connectedness will be affected by:

• How close to opposite 1 another the two nails are placed
• Using nails of sufficient length to adequately penetrate both forest members
• Nailing the toe-nails at the proper angle (45 degrees).
• Placing nails high enough from the edges of the abutting fellow member (vertical in our sketch) as to have adequate purchase and to avoid but splitting out a fiddling chip of the border of the 2x.
• Placing nails low enough in that same member to be certain that the length of the nail penetrates both the abutting member and the nailed-to facing member.
• Using the right number of nails specified for the lumber sizes involved.
• The species and form of the lumber beingness used and of course the condition of the lumber
• The blazon of loading: shear loading or lateral loading versus withdrawal loading that volition be practical to the connection

How Many Nails to Use When Toe-Nailing

Because the "toe-nails" cross one another in the header or ledger board when used to secure a deck joist, this connection tin can actually be stronger than straight-in or finish-nailing the deck joists from the other side of the ledger or girder.

But using also many nails (below left) or too few nails (beneath right) is a error that results in a weak connection and potentially an unsafe construction.

Using Likewise Many Nails when Nailing Wood Framing

Using besides many nails in a framing lumber connection when toe-nailing or in whatsoever position for that matter will also cause a weak framing connection that can lead to structural collapse.

That's because an excessive number of nails actually fractures the lumber. If you click-on and enlarge our photo at higher up left you'll see that the contractor fractured the vertical stud near its top. Our photo (left) shows nigh xxx nails shot past the builder during framing of this domicile.

The framer was trying to drive a recalcitrant stud into position. Clamps might have worked ameliorate.

This stud was so split as to lose its structural integrity, and replacement of this wall stud was needed.

Equally we evidence below, calculation more nails, even with a pneumatic blast gun, does not exercise a smashing job of pulling together framing members that are separated.

As well few nails when toenailing framing

Using too few toe-nails in a framing lumber connection is going to make a weak structure that could collapse.

For lawmaking compliant nailing encounter the nail schedules in the applicative building code for your area. For example see the UBC Tabular array 25-Q Nailing Schedule. A few examples are cited below.

• Studs: 2x4: 4 nails - In the bottom of a 2x4 stud we use ii nails per side, contrary 1 another, crossing in the nailed-to member.
• Studs, 2x6: vi nails - In the lesser of a 2x6 stud we'd use iii (and in some cases 4) nails per side.
• Joist to ledger board: varies past joist depth.

  In a 2x6 joist I'd use eight nails, 4 per side.

• Rafter toenail connections:

  At the birds' oral fissure cut of a rafter connecting to the superlative plate we use three nails per side, two down through the top of the birds' rima oris into the summit plate and one (on either side) of the rafter's vertical portion of the bird'southward mouth cutting into the face of the acme plate.

  Really? Well aye, in traditional wood framing we toe-nail the rafter to the top plate at the birds mouth cutout. However depending on the location of the structure and framing practices, the builder may apply a framing anchor specifically designed for joining a rafter to the acme plate of the wall.

  Our photo above shows a bird's mouth notch in a porch rafter sitting atop the outer girder - equivalent in location and rafter measurements to setting a rafter atop the wall peak plate of a building wall.

  In a properly-cut bird's mouth, the length of the horizontal or level line (beneath my two reddish arrows in the photograph above) should exist about equal in length to the width of the meridian plate.

  The bodily pattern of the bird'south mouth cut will vary in both length and depth according to the width of the tiptop plate, the angle of the roof, the design of the roof overhang and likewise the apply of framing connectors.

  Some framing anchors eliminate the birds mouth notch; a framing anchor provides a steel nailing plate connector that provides a stronger connection with ameliorate hurricane or tempest wind resistance. Like special connectors are provided for connection of the rafter to the ridge.

Above: a Simpson Strongtie® VPA variable pitch rafter-to-wall connector designed for solid sawn lumber. Discover that using the VPA rafter connector the bird'south mouth cutting or notch is eliminated. [Click to enlarge any epitome]

Below: a Simpson Strongtie® H1.81Z Hurricane Tie designed for LVL roof rafters to give a stronger connection to the summit plate

At the ridge the rafter is toe-nailed to the ridge board OR a steel framing connector tin be used. Beneath my photograph shows separation between the rafter face up and the ridge board.

Below: questionable rafter-to-wall connections

To a higher place: two visible, maybe four maximum, toe-nails through rafter ends along with some other rather odd wood framing in a U.South. home inspected past the author.

In my Stance (not an engineering opinion) and from what we tin encounter, these rafters are non adequately connected to the residual of the construction.

• Girder or axle to post, plate or other connections: must be specified by the blueprint

Examples of Nailing Schedule for Toe-Nailed or Camber-Nailed Wood Framing Connections
Wood Frame Connection Blazon	Number of Nails Required
Blocking or Bridging, betwixt joists / rafters	3-8d into top plate 2-8d into joists at each cease of the block or bridging
Ceiling joist to top plate of wall	iii-8d toenails - 12d
Cross bridging betwixt joists	two-8d nails
Header to studs	4-8d - 12d toenails two on opposing sides
Rafter to surface of top plate	three-8d - 10d - 12d toe-nails (see notes in text above), also 10d box nails may be used in some jurisdictions.
Flooring joists or ceiling joist to acme surface of sill plate or girder top	3-8d mutual toenails, or 10d, or 12d
Floor joists or deck joists to ledger board face	4-6 8d or 10d toenails per side, 2x6 joist; number per side increases for deeper joists;
Joist & rafter blocking	3-8d, face smash from two nails from 1 side
Rim joist to surface of top plate or sill plate	8d, vi" o.c.
Wall stud (2x4) to summit plate	2 - 16d end-nails (through the plate from below, into the stud terminate)
Wall stud (2x4) to sole plate or "shoe"	4 - 8-d toe-nails or 2 - 16d end-nails (through the plate from below, into the stud end)

Notes to & Complete Nailing Schedule Sources for table higher up

• Boom FASTENING SCHEDULE - 2016 CALIFORNIA Building Code Table 2304.10.1 [PDF] Building & Prophylactic Partitioning, Plans & Permits Div., City of Fremont California, 39550 Freedom St., Fremont CA 94538, Website: www.fremont.gov, original source: https://world wide web.fremont.gov/DocumentCenter/View/7140/FASTENING-SCHEDULE?bidId=
• NAILING SCHEDULE - 1994 Uniform Building Code Table 23-I-Q [PDF] - this PDF provides the unabridged wood framing nailing table that serves as a general guideline on number of toe-nails used and nail size used for diverse residential wood framing connections.
• RESIDENTIAL NAILING SCHEDULE Table R602.three(one) FASTENER SCHEDULE for STRUCTURAL MEMBERS [PDF] Dublin CA Building & Condom Sectionalization, 100 Civic center Plaza, DublinCA 95468 U.s., Tel: 925-833-6620 website: dublin.ca.gov
• IRC Code: IRC–12/13 Table R602.3(1) Fastening Schedule for Structural Members

Other code & data source citations for nailing schedules are given below

Lookout out: It is essential that nails be driven from both sides of the member for a proper toe-nailed connection.

How to keep the framing member in position when toe-nailing

Framing tip : if y'all've marked the stud, rafter, or joist location on the nailed-to plate or ridge board you may find that equally you toe-nail the commencement blast into the side the nailed-through member begins to slide by the placement line.

If the movement of the nailed-through member off of the layout line is ane/8" or less, go ahead and stop the first nail, but then start the 2d nail on the opposite side of the nailed-through member. Every bit you lot finish that smash y'all will drive the nailed-through member back to its exact position on the layout line.

If the movement off of the layout line is more than i/8", finish nailing the first toe-nail and showtime the second opposite-side toenail to move the member back into position.

Rather than tippy-tap back and along on the two sides, yous should be able to fully bulldoze the 2d nail even if it moves the member back over the layout line up to 1/8" in the reverse direction. When you terminate nailing the kickoff toenail you'll drive the fellow member back into perfect position.

Then terminate the remaining toenails, taking turns to nail from opposing sides.

Where to Identify the Nails When Toe-Nailing

at left is an instance of angle or slant nailing that is not "toe nailing" because the nails for each connectedness are existence driven into but one side of the mated forest members. That's ok for this application.

Incidentally, yous may detect that the joist bridging shown at left was nailed at its upper end before the subfloor was prepare in place. Just no one remembered to finish the job. The nails in the bridging ends bear witness proper placement and bending for nailing into the joist bottom edges.

First allow's sympathize the objective: nosotros desire the toe-nailed nails to accomplish the post-obit:

• Avert splitting the nailed-through member: this ways don't start the toenail to close to the very end of the nailed-through member. Unremarkably three/4" to 1 1/4" before the end of the nailed through member will work.
• Obtain sufficient depth or bite into the nailed-to framing member. This means we desire three/4" or more than of nail fully into the body of the nailed-to member. Choose a blast of the right size (run across below) and right location to attain this.

If y'all're not sure nigh the angle (about fifty° to lx° up from horizontal) or starting location of your nail from the end of the member, hold your toenail across an case of the to-be-connected lumber where the end of the nailed-to member is visible. You'll exist able to run into the depth to which information technology's going to penetrate.

Toenail or Slant-nailing Spacing Specifications
Location	Minimum Clearance Distance
Minimum end-distance to commencement the toenail:	7/8"
Minimum edge distance to start the toenail	7/viii"
Minimum centre-to-center altitude for spacing toenails	ane 3/iv"

Notes to the table above

Some model edifice codes such as the UBC specify the spacing for slant nailed or toenailed connections, with differing requirements depending on whether the objective is to reduce shear loading or lateral loading versus withdrawal loading.

Building code specifications for nailing schedules also include assumptions about the forest species and grade, typically Douglas-fir/larch or Southern Pine lumber.

What size nails should be used for toe-nailing

Our photo (left) shows a built-upwardly girder sitting atop a forest postal service with no visible connection.

Simply in my OPINION the typical "toenailing" of this girder to the mail top that some builders may use would still be an inadequate connectedness.

This connection, discussed in detail at FRAMING CONNECTORS & JOIST HANGERS, is an unsafe construction that risks collapse.

Reader question: (July 22, 2012) Ron said: 3" or 3 i/4" for toe nailing 2x lumber?

Respond: Ron,

In the article above you tin see an analogy of toe-nailing showing nails crossing into the nailed-to member for force.

• The required nail size for toenailing or slant-nailing depends on the awarding, location, blazon of connection, and size of lumber involved.
• The nail size likewise affects the number of nails required.
• For example in connecting a wall stud to the sole plate we utilize 2 end-driven 16d nails OR iv 8d toenails.
• Equally another case, where making structural connections of larger lumber sizes using 16d (3 i/2") mutual nails, the Uniform Edifice Lawmaking (UBC) requires 1 iii/4" of penetration into the nailed-to member.
• For nailing typical 2x studs to a bottom plate or top plate the UBC requires 4 8d mutual nails, ii per side of the stud.
• A 3-inch nail or 10d nail would be big enough for most common framing situations. In fact some framing texts (Wagner, Willis H, "Modernistic Carpentry" (1976)) draw using four 8d toenails, most likely again out of a concern to avoid splitting problems.

Driven a properly-sized nail on a proper angle through the 1 1/ii" of thickness of 2x lumber you've got one- 3/four" bite into the lumber below;

Toe nailing tin can be quite stiff if properly installed - with nails in pairs assail opposing sides and at opposing angles so that they "cross" inside the nailed-to wood. But if "toe nailing" is done merely from ane side the framing connection is non strong and in my stance non proper.

It's also of import to locate the toenail correctly - if it'due south too close to the bottom of the vertical stud or end of the horizontal framing joist it will separate the wood and won't have enough bite in the nailed-through member.

If on the other hand the toenail is too loftier in the nailed-through member it won't accept enough bite in the nailed-to member. I toenail about an inch from the end of the nailed-through fellow member and on an angle that I can visualize as sending a good portion of the blast into the body of the nailed-into member.

How to avert splitting when toenailing or slant-nailing woods framing

Outset by keeping the toenails a sufficient distance from the end of the nailed-through fellow member but not so high that you won't have adequate penetration into the nailed-to member.

In our photograph at left I point out the location of two of the four required toenails for nailing the rafter to the top plate at the birds' oral cavity cut.

I don't see any splitting but I'm worried that the nails may be a flake loftier. Depending on the size of nail used at that place may not be adequate penetration into the summit plate.

Photograph courtesy of Carson Dunlop Assembly, a Toronto engineering science & dwelling house inspection firm and domicile inspection education visitor.

Framing tip : experienced carpenters larn to place the long axis of the diamond-shaped cutting tip of a common framing nail beyond the woods grain of the nailed-into member.

This position minimizes splitting. As yous take the nail out of your nail apron with your left paw, just identify the tip of your tertiary finger on the nail tip and employ your pollex and forefinger to whorl the boom then that you lot feel its long axis confronting the flat of your third finger. With the nail in that position, as you get-go the fastener, place the long centrality of the smash point across the wood grain.

A 3 ane/ii inch common nail or 16d might be over-sized for toe-nailing and is likely to split the 2x, especially if nailed near the edges of the lumber.

You originally asked this question in an article on framing connectors. Framing connectors, an alternative to toenailing, are nailed straight into the respective framing members using common, galvanized merely short framing connector nails, non full length common nails.

Separately, in our article on framing square apply,

at FRAMING SQUARE for BIRDS MOUTH Cut

we explain how the bird's rima oris cutting is located in a rafter by following the rafter's line length from ridge to outer confront of wall top plate.

Toe-nailing & Slant-Nailing References

• Breyer,Donald E., Kenneth Fridley, Kelly Cobeen, David Pollock, Blueprint of Wood Structures - ASD, McGraw Hill, 2003, ISBN-10: 0071379320, ISBN-13: 978-0071379328
• Harris, Samuel Y. P.E., AIA, Esq., Building Pathology, Deterioration, Diagnostics, and Intervention, ISBN 0-471-33172-4, John Wiley & Sons, 2001 [Full general building science-DF] ISBN-x: 0471331724 ISBN-xiii: 978-0471331728
• Wagner, Willis H, Modern Carpentry, Building Structure Details in easy-to-understand form, [at Amazon] The Goodheart-Wilcox Co., Inc., 1976, ISBN 0-87006-208-five
• Watt, David , Edifice Pathology: Principles and Practice, Wiley-Blackwell, 2nd edition (March seven, 2008) ISBN-10: 1405161035 ISBN-13: 978-1405161039
• 1994 Uniform Building Code Table 23-I-Q, Tabular array 23-Two-eight-1, Table 25Q
• "Residential Addition Submittal Checklist", City of Ripon, Public Works Department, excerpts from model edifice codes including the UBC nailing schedule, retrieved v/20.xiv, original source http://www.cityofripon.org/Building/PDF/09-Residental-Addition.pdf
• Wisconsin Administrative Code, Chapter SPS 321, Structure Standards, retrieved 5/xx/xiv, original source: http://docs.legis.wisconsin.gov/code/admin_code/sps/safety _and_buildings_and_environment/320_325/321.pdf

Reader Comments & Q&A

improper toe-nailing: as well many nails, split up lumber

Matt: those joist connections don't wait as well nice to me either.

1. The nails are rather shut to the joist stop. At some of those locations the joist finish is splitting, giving a weak and potentially dangerous structural connexion.

2. The nails are mis-driven in at least one instance (from the joist top) - missing the ledger.

3. The ledger is dissever at the end from having driven what looks like 14 nails on that side of the outermost joist - and that's before even looking at the other side of the same joist where more nails may exist present.

In a 2x6 joist I'd use a total of 8 8d or 10d nails, 4 per side, typically 8d in size or in some cases 10d - these are the most-commonly-used blast sizes when toe-nailing 2x framing lumber every bit unless you're using box nails, larger nails tend to split the lumber, especially when, as in your photo, they're nailed too close to the cease of the joist.

4. The adjacent ledger (nigh the photo's upper correct corner) in is roughly cut, non affluent with the ledger board, nailed too close to the joist finish and peradventure too sports besides many nails. Too many nails actually weaken the connection by splitting the wood peculiarly at the joist end.

v. In the ledger lath connection to the construction, at that place is an exposed nut and washer that look loose just I tin't encounter enough to be sure how this framing fellow member is secured to the building;

you certain want that ledger board to be properly and deeply connected to the building (at what looks similar a concrete block or parged foundation wall)

6. I see no flashing betwixt ledger and building

Watch out: inadequately or poorly fastened framing risks structural collapse and injury

Luckily all is not lost. The careful addition of properly-sized steel joist hangers MIGHT be able to salvage this state of affairs; the down-side is having to bulldoze again more than nails into the joist just the hangers can be nailed to the ledger lath and those fasteners will be farther away from the indicate at which the joist butts into the ledger board.

When I've run into this situation and the lumber was badly split up the contractor agreed to replace it and re-frame the area.

When I've had to employ steel joist hangers or mending plates in these situations I have not bad care to use the proper fastener; joist hanger nails or screws are manufacturered inthe proper size, both diameter and length, for utilise with these structural fasteners.

Sentry out

: In my OPINION, I prefer using joist hanger screws for their ease of installation in spots where sometimes hammering space is limited, and because the screws take non just acceptable shear resistance but improved withdrawal resistance over nails.

An example of that production is shown to a higher place, Simpson Stiff-Tie Structural Screws SD9112R100 No.ix past 1-one/two-Inch Structural-Connector Screw - specifically designed for this application.

The company says: Simpson Strong Tie SD Structural-Connector Screws are designed to exist used with Simpson Connectors for both interior and exterior applications.

Bluntly I can't see much from one photo but I agree that some additional measures are appropriate.

I've had a contractor building a deck. They put the initial joist(2x8 treated) too far apart and ended up using a reciprocating saw to cut the nails where they went to the ledger.

When they nailed them back in, information technology appears they did not employ galvanized fasteners. The contractor fired the crew, and the new crew is now using joist hangers with the same joist to attach it to the ledger.

I'one thousand worried that the joists are nailed out now and new joists should be installed, just the contractor is avoiding it due to the large cost.

Chuck:

If the separate your photos evidence is in a rim joist that sits atop a foundation wall or sill and then it's not likely to presage a sag or collapse;

and I'm unclear how you could run lag bolts up through the bottom of the joist as it'due south bottom is atop a foundation or sill.

You lot could, however, add steel mending plates to reinforce the expanse of the split.

Shown here is a Simpson TP37 flat metal mending plate from Simpson Potent Necktie

I take a daylight rambler with post & beam down the length of the house in the basement.

For most of the length, joists sit on tiptop of the beam, but for most 11 feet at one stop the joists are toenailed into the beam and sit on a 2x4 sill nailed along the lesser of the beam, which provides amend headroom for that area.

I decided to tie every other opposing joist together through the beam in order to better resist them coming apart in an earthquake.

Even so, when I started looking at the "subconscious" (past pipes & ductwork) side of the axle, I institute a separate running for around 8 feet nigh 3-4" above the sill.

I'm wondering if that's a problem and, if and then, whether running lag bolts upwards through the beam to reinforce it would help. First photo shows the construction. Second photo shows the scissure on the opposite side of the beam.

This is the second photo meant to get with the previous postal service.

January

As long every bit the nails are the right size for the framing members and the right number are used, toe-nailing is perfectly acceptable. Information technology does crave a chip more adept workmanship to get the connections neat, proper, and strong, but, then, a careless worker can foul upwardly joist hangers just every bit easily.

Building a floating deck. Contractor wants to utilise toe nailing instead of joist hangers. What are your thought

John

In the article above we requite the recommended number of toe-nails per side for various dimensions of 2x lumber. That'south what I recommend as your guide.

At that place is no unmarried exactly right respond to your question considering wood is a natural material from a living constitute that is not absolutely consistent and identical by species nor even from one board or 2x to the next of the aforementioned species, even the same tree.

In a given 2x for example, moisture content, wood species, the presence of a knot, the proximity to heartwood, the presence of existing impairment or splits, variations in grain density and direction, also as the smash diameter and even nail cantankerous section shape and the angle to which the nail is driven and the closeness of the nail entry point to the stop of the fellow member ALL affect the probability that the fellow member volition divide around the nail, weakening or ruining the connection.

Thanks for asking a great question. We will keep this with the commodity and add other factors in the probability that a piece of wood is going to split or otherwise have a poor nailed connectedness.

How much of a gap can there be betwixt toe-nailed members before the toe-nails start losing effectiveness??

JoAnn the nailing schedule, size, number are given for toe nailing in the article higher up.

Your local building department and your codes could crave other connectors, depending on where you live, such every bit for seismic or high wind conditions.

What I have read here sounds to cover my concern somewhat on toe nailing beam to joist. I will ask though, for my personal use: This involves constructing a patio comprehend. In connecting a double 2x6 beam to a 2x6 joist, and if toe nailing, what recommendation in lodge to pass metropolis code, can be given me on proper nailing to use, boom size, how many and how placed. The rafters/joist volition be over the double 2x6. Thanks.

Tin 4x4 Posts exist toenailed with 4 in screws on decking to hold roof

...

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